Archive for category Bikes

Acquisition Moto

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Ecran LCD Hitachi avec plusieurs lignes ( ~ 20 euros ) besoin de 6 fils avec l’interface 4 bits, possibilite de descendre a 3 fils en utilisant un shift register (http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/LCD3wire)

Sauvegarder sur de l’USB (2Go ou 4Go ~ 10 a 15 euros)

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Main/UsbMemory
http://apple.clickandbuild.com/cnb/shop/ftdichip?op=catalogue-products-null&prodCategoryID=53&title=VDIP1

Le module coute 16 Euros

Sauvegarder sur du SD

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8215

Le module coute 45$

Encore mieux, mais ca prend pas mal de place sur la flash….

http://www.roland-riegel.de/sd-reader/index.html

Mais ca prend trop de place il faut faire l’upgrade suivant

http://www.ladyada.net/library/arduino/upgrade.html

ou passer sur une sanguino

http://www.geocities.jp/arduino_diecimila/bootloader/index_en.html

GPS ( 4 fils)

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Tutorials/GPS

cout de ce gps assez eleve: http://www.parallax.com/Store/Sensors/CompassGPS/tabid/173/List/1/ProductID/396/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName%2CProductName

90$

Dispo chez lextronic 75Euros la piece

Ou encore cette bete la chez lextronic

http://www.lextronic.fr/P4161-platine-gps-oem-gps-minimod.html

(80 euros)

Un GPS blutooth avec batterie incluse et son chargeur coute 50 euros…… chez rueducommerce avec un chip en Sirf3….

Un mini adapteur USB Blutooth coute 13 euros…

Ajouter 8 entrees ou sorties de/multiplexees pour l’analogique avec le

74HC4051 (0.25 Euro)

Il est necessaire d’avoir les 3 fils de commande et 1 entree/sortie analogique

Passer sur une carte Beagle Board avec un Arm Cortex, et faire de l’acquisition par les ports serie via USB sur plusieurs cartes filles. 150$ pour la carte beagle board, apres il faudra rajouter un gros hub usb. (Pas de reseau mais bon du ethernet, wifi ou blutooth facile avec les trucs du commerce et surtout du Linux avec les sorties videos)

Ou carement utiliser un netbook ou un petit portable… (225 euros sous Linux, c’est bien assez et en plus il y a l’ecran et l’application pour voir ce qui est fait), ca me paraît au moins faisable pour la voiture.

http://www.pobot.org/Codeur-incremental.html

Pour transformer un moteur pas a pas en codeur, peut etre utile pour utiliser une cremaillaire avec la suspension. Soucis pas precis a basse vitesse

http://spt06.chez-alice.fr/encodeur.htm

Encodeur optique haute resolution, trop complique.

Je prefererai me baser sur qq. Chose de simple une cremaillaire avec un roulement et une barriere infrarouge ou truc dans le genre, ca serait beaucoup plus simple….

Ou plutot recuperer une souris mecanique, recuperer les ir encoder et les monter sur roulement a bille…. delicat…. on tout simplement trouver une cremaillaire a passer devant ou equivalent.

Ou sinon plus simple encore capteur a effet hall qui coute environ 1,5 euros

http://www.eightlines.com/blog/2008/09/data-logging-to-the-arduino-eeprom/

http://www.scienceray.com/Technology/Engineering/The-Arduino-Board-Hall-Sensor.118114

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Liens moteurs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Balancing

http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth1.htm

http://dinamoto.it/DINAMOTO/on-line%20papers/twin%20motors/twin.html

http://bielles.free.fr/bielles-mecanique/piston.html

OBDII

http://icculus.org/obdgpslogger/

http://www.obdkey.com

WHEELS

http://www.osmoswheel.com/

OTHERS

http://www.rotorbike.com/nueva/ingles/infotecnica.htm

http://www.amn-nice.com/usinage-reparation.html

http://www.hotfrog.fr/Entreprises/Fonte-Azur

http://www.autofieldguide.com/articles/050302.html

http://www.wipo.int/pctdb/en/wo.jsp?IA=EP1999008808&wo=2000029732&DISPLAY=STATUS

http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/resources/docs/electric%20turbocompound%20technology.pdf

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Liens fonderie

Pour le moulage

http://www.pascal-rosier.com

http://www.geant-beaux-arts.fr

Pour la fonderie

http://www.usinages.com/fonderie-f67.html

http://www.la-borne.com/fifta/index.htm

http://www.sulka.fr/fcp/

http://bobsmetalcasting.home.comcast.net/~bobsmetalcasting/lostfoam.html

http://www.theworkshop.ca/casting/foamcasting/foamcasting.htm

http://www.theworkshop.ca/casting/casting.htm

http://www.foundry-fopars.co.uk/

http://www.metalworker.eu/

Fourniture Sables, Résistance de Four …etc…

http://www.adampyrometrie.com/

http://www.solargil.com

Four à Gaz

http://vrcfr.site.voila.fr/four_roger/index.html

Autres

http://www.geocities.com/marcus_loignon/Home.html

http://www.hpceurope.com/vfrnw/index.php

http://www.astrosurf.com/astrolynx/mecano01.html

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/JimHciMainpage.html

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/jean-luc.soumard/index.htm

http://www.dmdaustralia.com.au/block.html

http://virtualindian.org/3techcasting.htm

http://www.saunalahti.fi/~animato/steam/

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My Low Cost Tuning for SV

It just take little money to change a dangerous bike, to a safer and quicker one.
Before getting some BHP, have a look to tires, fork, brakes, shocks…

Fork, Brakes:

  • Modification of the fork, too soft and has no valve. Replaced oil with 20 W SAE and White Power progressive springs (I did not put the shims, too hard). Cost 15€ (fork oil) Cost 120 € (WP springs).
  • Change front brake pads with EBC Metal. It is really easy to do stoppies while you do not want to do this ;-) . Cost 50€
  • Change front brake fluid each year and regular airbleeding. Cost 15€
  • Modification of the height of oil of the fork, added 50ml of SAE 20W in each fork leg (above recommended height described in the manual of WP springs), I fully relax the progressive spring (about 30mm of SAG bike only, with me add about 20mm of SAG). Result softer on the first 20 mm and after lot of margin when really pushing on the front brake, better cornering. May be a little bit too hard, but this is too soon to have a definitive answer, not done enough miles. Cost 15€

After let’s take some BHP

Engine:

  • Removed ignition retard see links before. It is difficult to feel the difference but seems to be better on 2nd and 3rd gear, safer for the rev limiter. Cost 0€.
  • Added 2 degrees of advance on the ignition through modification of the pick up position. An huge improvement in low and mid-range RPM. With this modification the old SV accelerate just like a 650 K5 SV with a Devil exhaust. (I should add 2 more degrees) Cost 0€
  • Modification of the snorkel of the air filter, remove about 30mm at the near end of the inner pipe (One time i remove the snorkel, loud sound, no more torque at low revs… unefficient in my case). Helps to have a broader and higher “chord” from 7000 until 9000 rpm and at the same time, less clogging of the air filter. Cost 0€.
  • Modification of the tank support through 2 shims of 5mm, helps to air breath the little motor. With the previous modification (and next one), you will fill the change. Cost 0€
  • Modification of crankcase breather pipes on the air box, because my SV was eating so much oil because I love to push. The trick is to adjust at least the 2 pipes connected to the airbox (drill at least to the diameter of the internal pipes, which is not done by Suzuki….), and you can also add two more pipes (my case). The little motor push like a bull until the rev limiter. Slightly less need to add oil. Cost 3€ (aluminium tube of 10mm in a home depot)
  • Change spark plugs with colder ones (NGK Something 9). Cost 20€
  • Modification for the “depression hat” of the carbs, drilling bigger hole (1,5mm if i remember). Result better throttle response. Cost 0€

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Some useful links for the Suzuki SV650 S 2002

http://julien.boucaron.free.fr/650s_blu.jpg

Mitsubishi TD02 turbo

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mitsubish-TD02-EK-Sport-LA-H81W-657cc-Turbocharger_W0QQitemZ220410169970QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3351784a72&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A30

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_4A3_engine

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